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Split

Split is a Dalmatian harbour city built inside and around a Roman emperor's palace, where daily life still happens among ancient walls.

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Split

Split is Croatia's second-largest city and the main gateway to the islands of central Dalmatia, but it is far more than a ferry terminal. Its heart is the palace that the Roman emperor Diocletian built for his retirement around the year 300; when the empire fell, local people moved inside the walls and never left. Today the palace is not a ruin behind a fence but a living neighbourhood of narrow stone lanes where people hang out their washing above shops, cafés and bars, and the whole old town has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1979. In front of the palace runs the Riva, a palm-lined waterfront promenade where the city drinks coffee for hours, and to the west rises Marjan, a forested hill with walking paths and swimming coves. For a visitor, Split combines a real city of everyday life with beaches inside the town, easy island trips and a relaxed Mediterranean rhythm the locals call fjaka. In summer it is lively and crowded; in spring and autumn it is calmer and very easy to meet people over a long coffee by the sea.

Places to visit

Diocletian's Palace and the Peristyle

The palace covers several city blocks, and you can wander into it through any of its four gates without a ticket. Its centre is the Peristyle, a colonnaded square where the emperor once appeared before his subjects; today people sit on the stone steps with a drink, and in summer there are often concerts and performances. Get lost in the side lanes early in the morning before the tour groups arrive, and notice how medieval houses and Renaissance windows have been built straight into the Roman walls.

Cathedral of St Domnius and the bell tower

One of the oldest cathedral buildings in the world still in use, it was originally Diocletian's own mausoleum, later converted into a church dedicated to a saint the emperor had persecuted. Next to it, the Romanesque bell tower can be climbed by a steep, narrow staircase, and the view from the top across the red roofs, the harbour and the islands is the best way to understand the shape of the city. A combined ticket also covers the crypt and the small Temple of Jupiter nearby.

The palace substructures

Beneath the palace lie vast vaulted halls that once supported the emperor's apartments above. Filled with rubble for centuries, they are now among the best-preserved Roman structures of their kind and give you a clear idea of the floor plan of the building above. The central corridor, open without a ticket, is lined with stalls selling crafts and souvenirs, and the halls were used as a filming location for the television series Game of Thrones.

The Riva

The wide waterfront promenade between the palace walls and the harbour is the city's living room. Cafés line one side, palm trees and benches the other, and from morning coffee to the evening stroll it is where Split meets, sits and watches the boats. It is the natural starting point for any walk, and the place to understand the local habit of making one coffee last an hour.

Marjan Hill

A forested peninsula at the western edge of the city, protected as a park and crossed by paths, steps and a long road closed to most traffic. Climb the stone steps from the Varoš neighbourhood to the Vidilica viewpoint for a panorama of the old town and harbour, continue to the top for views of the islands, or follow the shore to small pebble coves and rocky swimming spots such as Kašjuni and Bene. It is where locals run, cycle and escape the summer crowds.

Gregory of Nin and the Meštrović Gallery

Outside the palace's northern Golden Gate stands Ivan Meštrović's giant bronze statue of Gregory of Nin, a medieval bishop who defended the use of the Croatian language in church; rubbing his big toe is said to bring luck, which is why it shines. To see more of the sculptor's work, visit the Meštrović Gallery, set in the villa he built for himself on the slopes of Marjan, with a garden of sculptures facing the sea.

Where to go out

Bačvice beach and picigin

The sandy town beach just east of the centre is the social heart of summer. In its shallow water locals play picigin, a game where a small ball is kept in the air with splashing, diving palm strikes; anyone can watch and many are happy to explain. In the evening the beach bars and clubs along the bay take over, making it one of the main places to go out.

Bars in the palace lanes

On summer nights the narrow stone lanes inside Diocletian's Palace fill with small bars that put cushions and tables on the steps. Moving from one to the next is the classic Split evening, the atmosphere is relaxed rather than wild, and the walls themselves make the setting memorable.

Split Summer Festival

Every summer the city hosts a long-running festival of opera, theatre, concerts and dance, with performances staged in open-air settings in the old town, including the Peristyle itself. Watching an opera in the courtyard of a Roman emperor's palace is an experience few cities can offer; check the programme and book in advance.

Hajduk Split at Poljud

Football is a passion here, and Hajduk Split is more than a club: its supporters, the Torcida, are among the oldest organised fan groups in Europe. A match at the Poljud stadium, with its distinctive shell-shaped roof, is a loud and colourful look at local identity. Tickets are usually easy to buy, except for the biggest derbies.

Ultra Europe and summer music

In July the Ultra Europe electronic music festival draws a large international crowd to a stadium park in the city, and its after-parties spread to the islands. Outside festival days, summer brings concerts on squares and beaches across the city; outside the season the nightlife is quieter and more local.

Things to do

Take a ferry to the islands

From the harbour next to the old town, car ferries and faster catamarans leave for the islands of central Dalmatia. Brač, with the famous Zlatni Rat beach near Bol, and Šolta are easy day trips; Hvar is livelier and suits an overnight stay; Vis, farther out, is quieter and wilder. Check the timetables in advance and arrive early in summer, when the boats fill up.

Shop at the Pazar and the fish market

Just outside the palace's eastern Silver Gate, the open-air Pazar market sells fruit, vegetables, cheese, olive oil and lavender from the surrounding region every morning. On the western side of the old town, the fish market sells the morning's catch. Go early to see local life at its busiest and buy a picnic for the beach.

Day trips inland

Split is a good base for the surrounding region. Trogir, a small medieval town on an island half an hour away, is another UNESCO World Heritage Site; Klis Fortress stands on a ridge above the city with wide views; Krka National Park, with its waterfalls and wooden walkways, can be visited in a day. The Cetina river gorge at Omiš is popular for rafting and canyoning.

Eat in a konoba

A konoba is a traditional Dalmatian tavern, and the best of them serve simple, seasonal food: grilled fish, black risotto, pašticada (slow-cooked beef in wine sauce) and dishes cooked under a peka, an iron bell covered in hot coals, which often have to be ordered in advance. The old Varoš quarter, at the foot of Marjan, is a good place to look for them.

Learn the art of fjaka

Fjaka is the Dalmatian word for a state of pleasant, unhurried idleness, and it is a real part of local life. Sit on the Riva over one coffee for an hour, take a long swim in the afternoon and walk the waterfront at dusk with no plan. It is the best way to understand the city, and it puts you among people without any effort.

Great first-date spots

Good to know

Best season

May, June and September are the best months: warm sea, long days and fewer crowds than in July and August, when the old town fills with cruise passengers and day-trippers and prices peak. The swimming season usually runs from June to early October. Summers are hot and dry. Winter is mild but can be rainy and windy, many island connections run less often and some seasonal places close, but the city remains lively with locals and is much cheaper.

Getting around

The old town and the Riva are compact and largely pedestrian, so walking is the main way to get around. Local buses connect the centre with the suburbs and beaches; the airport, about twenty-five kilometres west of the city, is linked by shuttle and local buses as well as taxis. The main bus station, the railway station and the ferry port are all next to each other at the eastern end of the harbour. Ride-hailing apps are widely used. Ferries and catamarans to the islands leave from the same harbour.

Language & meeting people

Croatian is the language, and Split's Dalmatian dialect is famous across the country. English is widely spoken, especially by younger people and in tourism; a simple hvala (thank you) is always appreciated. People in Split are open, direct and proud of their city, and social life happens outdoors: over coffee on the Riva, on the beach and on evening walks along the waterfront. Croatia uses the euro.

Where travelers & expats meet

Split has become a popular base for remote workers, helped by Croatia's digital nomad residence permit, and the community is visible in co-working spaces, cafés and meetups around the centre. Travellers gather in the bars of the old town, on Bačvice beach and in the hostels around the palace. Group activities such as sea kayaking, island boat trips, hiking on Marjan and language exchange evenings are easy ways to meet people.

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Frequently asked questions

Is Split a good city to visit alone?

Yes. It is compact, safe and very social, and its outdoor routines — coffee on the Riva, swimming at Bačvice, drinks on the palace steps — put you among people without any effort. Many solo travellers also use Split as the starting point for island hopping, which makes it easy to meet other travellers along the way.

How many days do I need in Split?

Two days are enough for the palace, the Riva, Marjan and a beach afternoon. Add a day or two for a ferry trip to Brač or Hvar and a day trip to Trogir or Krka National Park.

Is Split expensive?

In July and August accommodation and restaurant prices are high by Croatian standards, and the old town is the most expensive area. Outside the peak season prices fall noticeably. Markets, bakeries and local cafés remain good value all year, and staying slightly outside the centre saves money.

Do I need to book ferries to the islands in advance?

In summer it is wise, especially for catamarans and for car ferries if you are driving, because popular departures sell out. Outside the peak season you can usually buy tickets on the day, but services run less often, so check the timetable first.

Can I swim in the city itself?

Yes, and that is one of Split's great pleasures. Bačvice is a few minutes' walk from the old town, and the coves and rocky platforms around Marjan are quieter. The water is clean, and most beaches are pebble or rock, so water shoes are useful.

Is it safe to meet someone from an app in Split?

Split is a safe city, and the same simple rules apply as anywhere: meet in a busy public place for the first time, tell a friend where you are going and arrange your own transport. The Riva, the old town and the beaches are busy until late in the evening, which makes them natural first meeting places.

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