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Mexico City

Mexico City is a vast, high-altitude capital built on the ruins of an Aztec island city, and it is far friendlier at street level than its size suggests.

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Photo: Gobierno CDMX / CC0, via Wikimedia Commons

Mexico City

Mexico City is one of the largest cities in the world, with more than twenty million people in its metropolitan area, and it sits at around 2,240 metres in a valley ringed by mountains and volcanoes. It was founded as Tenochtitlan, the Aztec capital built on an island in a lake, and the Spanish city was raised directly on top of it: the cathedral stands beside the excavated ruins of the Templo Mayor, and the historic centre and the canals of Xochimilco have been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1987. Today it is a capital of museums, murals, markets and some of the best street food anywhere. The scale can feel overwhelming from the airport, but nobody experiences the whole city. Visitors live in a handful of walkable neighbourhoods — the historic centre, leafy Roma and Condesa, colonial Coyoacán — each with its own parks, cafés and evening rhythm. Life happens outdoors, around plazas, taco stands and park benches, and people are courteous and curious, which makes it an easy city in which to meet someone.

Places to visit

The Zócalo and the historic centre

The Zócalo is one of the largest public squares in the world, framed by the Metropolitan Cathedral and the National Palace, where Diego Rivera's murals of Mexican history cover the main staircase and upper corridors. Right next to the cathedral are the excavated remains of the Templo Mayor, the great temple of Tenochtitlan, uncovered after 1978, with an excellent museum on site. The surrounding streets are full of colonial palaces, churches and old cantinas; the pedestrian Calle Madero links the square to the Alameda.

Palacio de Bellas Artes and the Alameda Central

The white marble palace with its golden-tiled domes is the city's most recognisable building, completed in 1934 and home to opera, dance and large murals by Rivera, Orozco and Siqueiros. In front of it lies the Alameda Central, the oldest public park in the Americas, with fountains, tree-lined paths and benches that fill with families and couples at the weekend. For the best view of the palace and the city, take the lift to the observation deck of the Torre Latinoamericana across the street.

Chapultepec Park and the National Museum of Anthropology

Chapultepec is an enormous forest park on the west side of the centre, with lakes, a zoo, walking paths and a hilltop castle that now houses the National Museum of History. At its edge stands the National Museum of Anthropology, opened in 1964 and one of the great museums of the world, where the Aztec Sun Stone and the treasures of the Maya, Olmec and Teotihuacan cultures fill hall after hall. Give it at least half a day, and arrive when it opens.

Coyoacán

A former village in the south of the city, now a neighbourhood of cobbled streets, colonial churches, coyote fountains and two leafy central plazas full of street performers and ice-cream sellers. The Casa Azul, the blue house where Frida Kahlo was born and died, is now a museum — tickets sell out, so book online in advance. Afterwards, walk to the covered Coyoacán market for tostadas, or sit on a bench in the plaza and watch the neighbourhood go by.

Xochimilco

In the far south, the last canals of the old lake system survive between floating gardens called chinampas, still used to grow flowers and vegetables. Brightly painted flat-bottomed boats called trajineras take groups along the canals, while other boats pull alongside selling food, drinks and mariachi songs. At the weekend it is loud and festive; on a weekday morning it is calm and green. Agree the price and the length of the trip with the boatman before you set off.

Roma and Condesa

These two neighbouring districts are where many visitors end up spending most of their time. Wide avenues with grassy central walkways, art deco and art nouveau houses, independent bookshops, bakeries, galleries and restaurants make them the most pleasant part of the city to walk without a plan. Parque México and Parque España are the green hearts of Condesa, while Avenida Álvaro Obregón and the streets around Plaza Río de Janeiro carry the life of Roma.

Where to go out

Lucha libre at Arena México

Mexican professional wrestling is theatre as much as sport: masked heroes and villains, flying leaps from the ropes and a crowd that shouts, sings and insults the referee with great affection. Arena México, in the Doctores neighbourhood, holds shows several nights a week. Go with a group or book a ticket from a reputable seller, take a taxi or ride-hailing car there and back, and buy a mask outside as a souvenir.

Mezcal bars and cantinas

Roma, Condesa and the historic centre are full of bars serving mezcal, the smoky agave spirit from Oaxaca and other states, usually with orange slices and chilli salt. Traditional cantinas, some open for a century, still serve small free dishes with drinks in the afternoon. Evenings start late and move from one place to the next; the atmosphere is relaxed and conversation with the next table is easy.

Mariachis at Plaza Garibaldi

Plaza Garibaldi, north of the historic centre, is where mariachi bands in silver-studded suits gather in the evening to play for anyone who hires them a song. Even without paying, you can listen to several groups at once from a bench. Go in the evening rather than late at night, keep an eye on your belongings, and take a car directly back afterwards.

Ballet Folklórico de México

The Ballet Folklórico performs regional dances from across Mexico in colourful costumes at the Palacio de Bellas Artes, usually several times a week. It is a polished, joyful show and a chance to see the inside of the palace, including its famous glass stage curtain. It makes an easy shared plan for an evening that does not revolve around drinking.

Day of the Dead

At the end of October and the beginning of November, the city fills with marigold flowers, altars to the dead, sugar skulls and painted faces. There is a large parade along Paseo de la Reforma, and the Zócalo, Coyoacán and the cemeteries of the south hold displays and vigils. It is a moving and festive time to visit, and one of the best weeks of the year to be among people — book accommodation early.

Things to do

Visit the pyramids of Teotihuacan

About an hour north-east of the city, the ruins of Teotihuacan stretch along the Avenue of the Dead between the Pyramid of the Sun and the Pyramid of the Moon. Buses leave regularly from the Terminal Autobuses del Norte, and organised tours are widely available. Arrive early, before the heat and the crowds, and bring water, a hat and sun cream — there is very little shade on the site.

Eat your way through the street food

Tacos al pastor carved from a vertical spit, quesadillas, tlacoyos, tamales in the morning and fresh fruit with lime and chilli: the city eats on the street, at all hours. Choose busy stands where locals queue, which is the best sign of quality and freshness. Markets such as the Mercado de Coyoacán and the Mercado de San Juan are good places to start.

Cycle Paseo de la Reforma on Sunday

On Sunday mornings the city's grand avenue, Paseo de la Reforma, is closed to cars and opened to cyclists, runners and skaters. Rent a bicycle from one of the stands along the route, and ride past the Angel of Independence towards Chapultepec. It is one of the most cheerful sights in the city and a very easy way to share a morning with locals.

Spend a Saturday in San Ángel

San Ángel is a quiet colonial district of stone streets and bougainvillea near Coyoacán. On Saturdays the Bazar del Sábado fills its main square with painters, craftspeople and stalls selling textiles, ceramics and silver. Combine it with a visit to the Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo studio houses nearby and a long lunch in one of the old courtyards.

See the city from above

The observation deck at the top of the Torre Latinoamericana, opened in 1956, gives a view over the historic centre, the domes of Bellas Artes and, on clear days, the volcanoes on the horizon. Go late in the afternoon to see the city change as the lights come on. Clear skies are most likely in the dry season, especially after rain.

Great first-date spots

Good to know

Best season

The dry season from November to April brings sunny days and cool mornings and evenings; March and April are the warmest months. From around June to October the rainy season brings short, heavy afternoon showers, but mornings are often clear and the city is green. Because of the altitude it is rarely very hot, but nights can be cold in winter, so bring layers. Late October and early November, around the Day of the Dead, is the most popular time of the year.

Getting around

The Metro is extensive, very cheap and fast, though extremely crowded at rush hour; some lines have carriages reserved for women and children at busy times. The Metrobús rapid bus lines run along the main avenues, and both use the rechargeable city mobility card. Ecobici public bicycles are useful in Roma, Condesa and the centre. Ride-hailing apps are widely used, inexpensive and the simplest option at night and from the airport. Traffic is heavy, so allow plenty of time.

Language & meeting people

Spanish is the language, and even a few words — por favor, gracias, buenas tardes — are noticed and appreciated. English is spoken in hotels and in many places in Roma, Condesa and Polanco, less so elsewhere. People in Mexico City are polite, warm and indirect; courtesy matters, and greetings are expected when you enter a shop or a lift. The main meal is eaten in the middle of the afternoon, and evenings out begin late.

Where travelers & expats meet

Roma, Condesa and the neighbouring Juárez district have become home to a large community of remote workers and foreign residents, with many co-working spaces, specialty coffee places and language exchange evenings. Polanco is more upscale, while Coyoacán attracts students and artists. Walking tours, cooking classes, climbing and running groups, and weekend trips to the pyramids or nearby towns are common ways to meet people, and are easy to find through local social groups.

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Frequently asked questions

Is Mexico City safe to visit alone?

The neighbourhoods where most visitors spend their time — the historic centre during the day, Roma, Condesa, Polanco, Coyoacán and San Ángel — are generally considered safe with ordinary city precautions. Keep valuables out of sight, use ride-hailing apps rather than hailing taxis on the street at night, and ask locally before exploring unfamiliar areas. Many solo travellers find the city welcoming and easy to enjoy.

Will the altitude affect me?

At around 2,240 metres some visitors feel short of breath, tired or slightly headachy for the first day or two. Drink plenty of water, go easy on alcohol at first and plan a gentle first day. Most people adjust quickly.

How many days do I need in Mexico City?

Four or five days is enough for the historic centre, Chapultepec and the anthropology museum, Coyoacán, Roma and Condesa, and a day trip to Teotihuacan. Add more time for Xochimilco, San Ángel or simply to enjoy the food and the neighbourhoods at a slower pace.

Is Mexico City expensive?

It is very affordable by North American and European standards. Street food, markets, public transport and museums cost little, although restaurants and accommodation in Roma, Condesa and Polanco have become noticeably more expensive. Staying a little further from the most popular streets saves money.

When is the Day of the Dead?

The main days are 1 and 2 November, but altars, decorations and events fill the city from the last week of October. It is the busiest time of year, so book accommodation and popular museums such as the Casa Azul well in advance.

Is it safe to meet someone from an app in Mexico City?

The same simple rules apply as anywhere: meet in a busy public place for the first time, tell a friend where you are going and arrange your own transport — ride-hailing apps make this easy. Parks such as Parque México and Chapultepec, the plazas of Coyoacán and the cafés of Roma and Condesa are all busy during the day and into the evening, which makes them natural first meeting places.

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