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Taipei

Taipei is a green, mountain-ringed city where temples, night markets and hiking trails are all a short metro ride apart.

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Photo: othree / CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Taipei

Taipei sits in a basin surrounded by green mountains in the north of Taiwan, and it is one of the easiest large cities in Asia to get to know. Around two and a half million people live in the city itself and several million more in the surrounding city of New Taipei, yet it rarely feels overwhelming: the streets are lined with trees, the metro is clean and punctual, and forested hiking trails begin at the end of ordinary residential lanes. The city mixes eras freely. Incense-filled temples stand between apartment blocks, old shophouses along the river sell tea and dried herbs, former factories have become arts parks, and the Taipei 101 tower rises over the modern Xinyi district. Food is the centre of social life, from night markets and breakfast shops to tea houses in the hills, and a convenience store is never more than a few minutes away. For a visitor the important things are that Taipei is very safe at any hour, that people are polite and helpful even when they are shy about speaking English, and that the city comes alive in the evening, when the markets open and everyone goes out to eat.

Places to visit

Taipei 101 and Elephant Mountain

At 508 metres, Taipei 101 was the tallest building in the world when it opened in 2004, and its bamboo-shaped silhouette still defines the skyline. The observatory near the top offers a view across the whole basin, along with a look at the giant steel damper ball that steadies the tower in typhoons and earthquakes. For the classic view of the tower itself, take the metro to Xiangshan station and climb the steep stone steps of Elephant Mountain — around twenty minutes of effort, rewarded with the city spread out below. Go about an hour before sunset and stay until the lights come on.

Longshan Temple and Wanhua

Founded in 1738 by settlers from Fujian, Longshan Temple in the old Wanhua district is the city's best-known temple and still very much in use. Worshippers bring flowers and fruit, light incense and throw the crescent-shaped moon blocks to ask questions of the gods. Visitors are welcome as long as they move quietly and do not block those praying. Nearby, the restored red-brick lanes of Bopiliao Historic Block show what this part of the city looked like more than a century ago.

Dihua Street and Dadaocheng

Dadaocheng was Taipei's trading port in the nineteenth century, and Dihua Street is its main artery: a long row of restored shophouses selling dried mushrooms, herbs, tea, fabric and sweets, with a new generation of cafés, design shops and small galleries in the upper floors and back courtyards. The Xiahai City God Temple on the street is famous for its shrine to the Old Man Under the Moon, the deity of matchmaking, who many people visit to ask for help in love. Walk on to Dadaocheng Wharf on the river for sunset.

National Palace Museum

In the green hills of Shilin, the National Palace Museum holds one of the world's great collections of Chinese art: hundreds of thousands of objects spanning thousands of years, from bronzes and ceramics to painting, calligraphy and carved jade. Only a fraction is on display at any time, and the most famous pieces draw crowds, so arrive early or late in the day. Allow at least half a day, and leave time for the traditional garden next door.

Beitou hot springs

At the northern end of the metro network, Beitou is a hot-spring valley that has been a bathing resort for more than a century. A short walk from Xinbeitou station takes you past the Beitou Hot Spring Museum, a former public bathhouse, and up to Thermal Valley, a steaming green lake fed by volcanic springs. You can soak in an inexpensive open-air public pool or book a private bath at one of the hotels. It is a relaxing half-day out and very easy to reach.

Yangmingshan National Park

The volcanic mountains on the city's northern edge form a national park of grassy ridges, fumaroles, forests and hot springs, reachable by bus in under an hour from the centre. Trails range from short walks to the climb up Qixing Mountain, the highest peak in the park, with views to the sea on a clear day. In spring the valleys fill with flowers, including fields of calla lilies at Zhuzihu. Bring a layer: it is noticeably cooler and often misty up here.

Where to go out

Night markets

Night markets are the heart of Taipei's evenings. Shilin is the largest and busiest; Raohe, beside the ornate Ciyou Temple, is a single long lane that is easy to walk end to end; Ningxia is smaller and loved by locals for its food. Expect grilled skewers, pepper buns baked in clay ovens, oyster omelettes, shaved ice and, for the adventurous, stinky tofu. Go hungry, share several small dishes rather than one large one, and bring cash for the stalls.

Ximending

A pedestrian district west of the centre that is the city's youth culture hub, full of street food, fashion shops, cinemas, tattoo studios and street performers, especially at weekends. At its edge stands the Red House, an octagonal red-brick market hall from 1908 that now hosts craft shops and, in the evenings, a cluster of outdoor bars around its square. It is crowded, cheerful and an easy place to spend an evening.

Arts parks and live music

Two former industrial sites have become the city's cultural living rooms. Huashan 1914 Creative Park, an old winery, hosts exhibitions, markets, concerts and restaurants in its brick warehouses, and Songshan Cultural and Creative Park, a former tobacco factory, does the same around a pond and garden in the east of the city. Taipei also has a lively scene of small live music venues, known locally as live houses, where local indie bands play most nights.

Bars, rooftops and KTV

Taipei has a highly regarded cocktail bar scene, concentrated in Da'an and Xinyi, where bartenders often work with tea, local fruit and Taiwanese spirits. Xinyi also has large clubs and rooftop bars with views of Taipei 101. And then there is KTV: private karaoke rooms rented by the hour, open late and very popular with groups of friends and colleagues. If someone invites you, go — it is one of the most sociable things to do in the city.

Festivals

Lunar New Year, in January or February, is a quiet family holiday, but the weeks before bring the busy New Year market on Dihua Street. Two weeks later the Lantern Festival lights up the city, and the Pingxi Sky Lantern Festival nearby sees thousands of lanterns released into the night sky. On New Year's Eve, a fireworks display launched from Taipei 101 draws huge crowds to Xinyi. In late spring and early summer, dragon boat races take place on the rivers.

Things to do

Ride the Maokong Gondola to the tea houses

From Taipei Zoo station, a cable car climbs over forested hills to Maokong, a former tea-growing area where tea houses look back over the city. Order a pot of local oolong or Tieguanyin tea, learn the small-cup brewing ritual and stay for the lights after dark. Some gondola cabins have glass floors if you want extra excitement. Check the operating hours before you go, as the gondola closes in bad weather.

Eat a traditional Taiwanese breakfast

Breakfast is a serious meal in Taipei, and the classic version comes from small, busy shops serving warm soy milk, sweet or savoury, with fried dough sticks, egg pancakes and flaky sesame flatbread. Many open before dawn and sell out by late morning. Queue with everyone else, point at what looks good and sit at a shared table — it is cheap, filling and a real slice of daily life.

Hike one of the city's mountains

Few cities have so many trails so close to the centre. The Four Beasts Mountains above Xinyi — Elephant, Lion, Leopard and Tiger — are linked by stone paths through the forest, and Yangmingshan, Jiantanshan and the hills around Beitou are all reachable by metro or bus. Hiking is a popular weekend activity for locals, and hiking groups are an easy way to meet people. Bring water and start early in summer to avoid the midday heat.

Cycle the riverside paths

Long, flat cycling and walking paths follow the Tamsui and Keelung rivers through parks and wetlands around the city. The YouBike public bicycles can be rented with a transport card at stations all over Taipei. One of the most enjoyable rides heads along the river towards Tamsui, the old port town at the mouth of the Tamsui River, known for its sunsets, seafood and colonial-era buildings.

Take a day trip to Jiufen and Shifen

Northeast of Taipei, the hillside town of Jiufen grew up during a gold rush and is famous for its narrow lanes of tea houses and red lanterns overlooking the sea. Nearby, the Pingxi railway line runs through a green valley to Shifen, where you can write wishes on a paper sky lantern and release it beside the tracks, and walk to the Shifen Waterfall. Go on a weekday if you can, as both places are very busy at weekends.

Great first-date spots

Good to know

Best season

October to December and March to April are the most comfortable months, with warm days and lower humidity. Summer, from June to September, is hot and very humid, with frequent afternoon thunderstorms, and typhoons can bring a day or two of heavy wind and rain between July and October. May and June bring the plum rain season. Winter is mild but damp and grey, with cooler temperatures that can feel chilly indoors, as many buildings have no heating. Lunar New Year is a family holiday when many shops close for several days.

Getting around

The MRT metro system is clean, safe, inexpensive and covers almost everything a visitor needs, with signs and announcements in English. An EasyCard, available at stations and convenience stores, works on the metro, buses, YouBike bicycles and even for small purchases. The Airport MRT connects Taoyuan International Airport to Taipei Main Station in under an hour, and the high-speed rail runs south from the same station. Eating and drinking are not allowed on the metro, and on escalators people stand on the right. Taxis are plentiful and reasonably priced.

Language & meeting people

Mandarin is the main language, written in traditional Chinese characters, and Taiwanese Hokkien is widely spoken, especially among older people. Many younger people speak some English, though they can be shy about using it; translation apps and a smile go a long way, and a simple xièxie, meaning thank you, is always appreciated. Taiwanese people are known for being friendly, polite and helpful to visitors. Social life often revolves around food, so an invitation to eat together is the most natural way to get to know someone.

Where travelers & expats meet

Da'an is the favourite district of international residents, with leafy streets, cafés, bars and Da'an Forest Park. The area around National Taiwan Normal University and the Mandarin Training Center draws language students from around the world, and the nearby Shida and Gongguan neighbourhoods, close to National Taiwan University, are full of cheap restaurants and student bars. Zhongshan and Xinyi attract young professionals. Language exchange meetups, hiking groups, board-game cafés and international social clubs are common ways to meet people.

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Frequently asked questions

Is Taipei a good city to visit alone?

Yes. It is one of the safest large cities in Asia, the metro makes it very easy to get around, and eating alone at a night market or a noodle shop is completely normal. Hiking groups, language exchanges and hostel events make it easy to meet other people if you want company.

How many days do I need in Taipei?

Four days cover the main sights, a couple of night markets, Elephant Mountain, Beitou and Maokong. Add a day or two for Yangmingshan, Tamsui or a trip to Jiufen and Shifen.

Is Taipei expensive?

It is good value compared with most large cities in East Asia. Street food, local restaurants, public transport and many sights are inexpensive, and the hiking trails are free. Hotels in the central districts and cocktail bars are the main costs.

Do I need to speak Chinese?

No. The metro, airport and main sights have English signs, and many younger people speak some English. In small restaurants and markets, pointing, picture menus and a translation app usually work fine.

What should I eat in Taipei?

Try beef noodle soup, soup dumplings, braised pork rice, pepper buns, oyster omelettes, shaved ice with fruit and, of course, bubble tea, which was born in Taiwan. A traditional breakfast of soy milk and egg pancakes is a must.

Is it safe to meet someone from an app in Taipei?

Taipei is a very safe city, and the usual sensible rules apply: meet in a busy public place for the first time, tell a friend where you are going and arrange your own transport home. Night markets, riverside wharves and cafés are busy late into the evening and make natural first meeting places.

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