Sign Up

Seville

Seville is a warm, sociable southern city where life happens outdoors, dinner starts late and conversations with strangers come easily.

Sign Up
Photo: Marianne Cornelissen-Kuyt / CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Seville

Seville is the capital of Andalusia and one of the most atmospheric cities in Spain. It sits on the Guadalquivir river, with a compact historic centre of narrow whitewashed lanes, orange trees, tiled courtyards and some of the grandest monuments in Europe: a vast Gothic cathedral, a Moorish royal palace still used by the Spanish crown, and the sweeping Plaza de España. But what makes Seville special for a visitor is its rhythm. Life moves outdoors, around terraces, squares and standing-room tapas bars; lunch is late, dinner is later, and the streets fill again once the evening heat breaks. Sevillanos are open, talkative and proud of their city, and starting a conversation at a bar counter or on a crowded terrace is perfectly normal here. The city also has a large student and international population, which keeps the bars of the Alameda and Triana lively all year. Seville is more affordable than Madrid or Barcelona, very walkable and safe, and the twin spring celebrations of Holy Week and the April Fair show the city at its most intense. The only real challenge is the summer heat, which shapes everything from opening hours to when people go out.

Places to visit

The Cathedral and the Giralda

Seville Cathedral is the largest Gothic cathedral in the world, built on the site of the city's great mosque, and it holds the tomb of Christopher Columbus. Its bell tower, the Giralda, began life as the mosque's minaret; instead of stairs it has a series of ramps wide enough for a rider on horseback, and the view from the top takes in the whole old town. Book tickets online to skip the queue, and come back after dark to see the tower lit up from the Plaza Virgen de los Reyes.

The Real Alcázar

A royal palace begun by Moorish rulers and rebuilt by Christian kings in the same Mudéjar style, with carved plaster, tiled halls, quiet courtyards and enormous gardens full of fountains, palms and peacocks. It is still an official residence of the Spanish royal family and was used as a filming location for Game of Thrones. Book a timed ticket in advance, go early in the morning before the heat and the crowds, and allow time to get lost in the gardens.

Plaza de España and María Luisa Park

Built for the 1929 Ibero-American Exposition, the Plaza de España is a huge semicircle of brick and ceramic with a canal, little bridges and tiled alcoves representing each Spanish province. You can rent a rowing boat on the canal, and at sunset the light on the brick is spectacular. Next to it, María Luisa Park is the city's green lung: shady paths, ponds, pavilions and benches, perfect for a slow walk in the late afternoon.

Barrio Santa Cruz

The old Jewish quarter is a maze of narrow lanes, tiny squares with orange trees and whitewashed houses with iron balconies and flower pots. It is the most picturesque part of the city and very busy by day, but in the evening, once the tour groups have gone, it becomes quiet and romantic. Wander without a map, stop in Plaza de Santa Cruz or Plaza de Doña Elvira, and finish with a drink in one of the small bars around the Alcázar walls.

Triana

Across the river by the Isabel II bridge, Triana is the traditional neighbourhood of potters, sailors and flamenco artists, and it still feels like a village with its own identity. Visit the Triana market, built over the ruins of a castle of the Inquisition, browse the ceramic workshops on Calle Alfarería and Calle Antillano Campos, and then walk along Calle Betis, the riverside street lined with bars facing the old town. At night, Triana's small bars are some of the best places in the city to hear flamenco in an informal setting.

Metropol Parasol and the Alameda de Hércules

The Metropol Parasol, which locals call Las Setas, the mushrooms, is a giant wooden canopy over the Plaza de la Encarnación, with a market below and a walkway on top offering views over the rooftops, especially at sunset. A short walk north is the Alameda de Hércules, a long tree-lined square that is the centre of the city's alternative and student scene, surrounded by terraces, cafés and bars that stay busy late into the night.

Where to go out

Tapas culture

In Seville, going out to eat usually means ir de tapas: moving from bar to bar, ordering one or two small plates and a drink at each, often standing at the counter. It is one of the most sociable ways to eat anywhere, and conversations with the people next to you happen naturally. Classics include salmorejo, a thick cold tomato soup, espinacas con garbanzos, fried fish and slow-cooked pork cheek. The areas around the Alfalfa square, the Alameda and Calle Betis in Triana are good starting points.

Flamenco

Seville is one of the homes of flamenco, and there are performances every night of the year. Small venues such as the Casa de la Memoria or the Casa del Flamenco offer intimate, high-quality shows in courtyards, while the peñas, local flamenco clubs, and certain bars in Triana and the Alameda host more informal sessions where the audience is mostly local. A flamenco show is a memorable shared evening, and the Flamenco Dance Museum is a good introduction.

Late nights and terraces

The Sevillian evening starts late. People meet for a drink around nine, dinner rarely begins before ten, and bars and terraces stay busy past midnight, especially from spring to autumn. In summer the city comes alive only after sunset, and the riverside terraces along the Guadalquivir and the rooftop bars of the centre are the places to be. The Alameda de Hércules and the streets around it are the liveliest area for drinks and music.

Holy Week and the April Fair

Seville's two great celebrations come in spring. During Holy Week, Semana Santa, religious brotherhoods carry enormous floats through the streets day and night, accompanied by bands and silent crowds; it is solemn, moving and very crowded. About two weeks later comes the Feria de Abril, a week-long fair of striped tents called casetas, sevillanas dancing, horses, flamenco dresses and fino sherry. Many casetas are private, but the public ones are open to everyone, and the atmosphere is irresistibly social.

Concerts and the student scene

With tens of thousands of university students and one of the largest Erasmus communities in Spain, Seville has a lively scene of concerts, language exchanges and student nights. In summer, open-air cinemas and concert series take over gardens and patios, and the Bienal de Flamenco, held in even-numbered years in September, fills the city with performances. These are relaxed and natural ways to meet people.

Things to do

Row a boat in the Plaza de España

Renting a small rowing boat on the canal of the Plaza de España is a cheerful, slightly silly and very memorable activity, especially for two. Go in the late afternoon when the light turns golden, then walk through María Luisa Park to the riverside.

Kayak or cruise on the Guadalquivir

The river is central to Seville's history; from here the ships sailed to the Americas. A boat cruise from near the Torre del Oro or a kayak or paddleboard session at sunset shows the city from a different angle: the bridges, the Triana riverfront and the cathedral in the distance.

Explore by bike

Seville is flat and has a good network of bike lanes, and the public bike system makes it easy to get around. Cycling along the river, through María Luisa Park and out to the Isla de la Cartuja, the site of the 1992 Expo, is a pleasant way to spend a morning before the heat sets in.

Take a cooking class or visit a market

The Triana market and the Feria market in the north of the centre are full of local produce, ham, olives and fried fish stalls, and some have small bars where you can eat what you buy. A tapas cooking class is a fun shared activity and a good way to meet other travellers.

Day trips

The high-speed train reaches Córdoba and its great mosque-cathedral in about forty-five minutes. The Roman ruins of Itálica are just outside the city, and Cádiz, Jerez with its sherry bodegas, and the white villages of the Sierra are all easy day trips. A quiet day out together is a good next step after a first meeting.

Great first-date spots

Good to know

Best season

Spring, from March to May, is the best time: warm days, orange blossom in the air, Holy Week and the April Fair. Autumn, from late September to November, is also excellent. Summer is extremely hot, with afternoon temperatures often above forty degrees in July and August; locals stay indoors in the afternoon and go out after sunset, and many shops close for the summer break. Winter is mild and sunny, with cool evenings, and it is a pleasant, quieter time to visit. Book well ahead for Holy Week and the April Fair, when prices rise sharply.

Getting around

The historic centre is compact and best explored on foot; many streets are pedestrian or too narrow for cars. A tram runs through the centre, buses cover the rest of the city, and a metro line connects some outer districts. The airport bus reaches the centre in about thirty-five minutes, and taxis charge a fixed fare from the airport. The public bike system and flat terrain make cycling easy. The main train station, Santa Justa, has high-speed connections to Madrid in about two and a half hours.

Language & meeting people

The language is Spanish, spoken with a strong Andalusian accent that drops many final consonants. English is common in tourist areas and among younger people, but less so elsewhere, so a few words of Spanish go a long way. Sevillanos are warm, chatty and expressive; conversations with strangers at a bar counter or in a queue are normal, and greeting with two kisses on the cheek is common among friends. Plans are flexible and timekeeping is relaxed, so do not be surprised if a meeting time is approximate.

Where travelers & expats meet

The Alameda de Hércules is the heart of the international and student scene, with cafés, bars and language exchange nights. Triana is popular for its riverside terraces and local atmosphere, while the Alfalfa area and the streets around the Cathedral are full of tapas bars. Seville has a large Erasmus and English-teacher community, and weekly language exchanges, walking tours and flamenco classes are easy ways to meet both locals and other travellers.

Frequently asked questions

Is Seville good for solo travellers?

Yes. It is safe, compact and very sociable, and the tapas culture makes it easy to talk to people. Hostels, walking tours, language exchanges and flamenco classes are good ways to meet others, and the locals are usually happy to chat.

How many days do I need in Seville?

Three days are enough for the Cathedral, the Alcázar, the Plaza de España, Santa Cruz and Triana, with evenings for tapas and flamenco. Add a day for a trip to Córdoba or Cádiz.

Is Seville too hot in summer?

July and August are very hot, often above forty degrees. If you visit then, plan sightseeing for the morning, rest in the afternoon and go out after sunset like the locals. Spring and autumn are much more comfortable.

Is Seville expensive?

It is more affordable than Madrid, Barcelona or most of Western Europe. Tapas bars are good value, many monuments have free or reduced entry at certain times, and the parks, squares and riverside cost nothing. Prices rise sharply during Holy Week and the April Fair.

When is the April Fair?

The Feria de Abril takes place about two weeks after Easter, so the dates change every year. It lasts about a week; the public casetas are open to everyone, and the fairground is a lively place to meet people.

Is it safe to meet someone from an app in Seville?

Seville is a safe city, and the usual common-sense rules apply: meet the first time in a busy public place, tell someone you trust where you are going and arrange your own way home. Tapas bars, terraces and the riverside are lively until late and are natural places for a first meeting.

Meet someone in Seville

Sign Up

Other destinations

Pattaya Lisbon Barcelona Phuket Amsterdam Berlin Prague Manila