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Krakow

Krakow is a compact, historic student city where medieval squares, candlelit cellar bars and easy conversations come together.

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Photo: Maksym Kozlenko / CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Krakow

Krakow was Poland's royal capital for centuries and is one of the few great Central European cities to come through the Second World War with its old town largely intact. Its heart is the Rynek Główny, one of the largest medieval market squares in Europe, surrounded by townhouses, cafés and the spires of St Mary's Basilica, and ringed by the Planty, a park that follows the line of the old city walls. To the south rise Wawel Hill and its royal castle above the Vistula, and beyond them lies Kazimierz, the historic Jewish quarter, now the city's most atmospheric place for an evening out. What makes Krakow easy for visitors is its size and its energy. Almost everything is walkable, prices are lower than in Western Europe, and the city has one of Europe's oldest universities and tens of thousands of students, which keeps its bars, cafés and clubs busy all year. Poles can seem reserved at first, but in a shared setting such as a bar table, a walking tour or a festival they are warm, curious and quick with a joke, and many young locals speak good English. Krakow also has a darker history that deserves respect: the former Jewish ghetto in Podgórze and the Auschwitz-Birkenau memorial nearby are part of understanding the city.

Places to visit

Rynek Główny and the Cloth Hall

The main square is the city's living room: a vast open space lined with colourful townhouses and terraces, with the Renaissance Cloth Hall, Sukiennice, in the middle selling amber, wood carvings and souvenirs under its arcades. Upstairs is a gallery of Polish 19th-century painting, and below the square an underground museum shows the medieval market that once stood here. In summer the terraces fill from morning to late at night; in December the square hosts one of Europe's best-known Christmas markets.

St Mary's Basilica

The brick Gothic church with two unequal towers dominates the square. Inside, the carved wooden altarpiece by Veit Stoss is one of the masterpieces of late medieval art. Every hour a trumpeter plays the hejnał from the taller tower, a short melody that breaks off mid-note in memory of a legendary watchman. In summer you can climb the tower for a view over the square.

Wawel Hill

The royal castle and cathedral stand on a limestone hill above the river, where Polish kings were crowned and buried for centuries. The cathedral holds royal tombs and the huge Sigismund Bell, and the castle's state rooms display Renaissance tapestries. At the foot of the hill, by the river, a metal statue of the Wawel Dragon breathes fire every few minutes, a favourite of children and adults alike. Arrive early in the day, as some exhibitions have a limited number of tickets.

Kazimierz

Founded as a separate town and home for centuries to one of Europe's largest Jewish communities, Kazimierz combines historic synagogues and a Jewish cemetery with some of the liveliest bars in Krakow. Visit the Old Synagogue and the Remuh Synagogue during the day, then return in the evening, when the courtyards and candlelit bars around Plac Nowy fill up. At the round market hall in the middle of the square, food stalls sell zapiekanki, Krakow's famous long open sandwiches, until late at night.

Podgórze and Schindler's Factory

Across the river from Kazimierz, Podgórze was the site of the wartime Jewish ghetto. The museum in Oskar Schindler's former enamel factory tells the story of Krakow under German occupation in an immersive and moving way, and the nearby Ghetto Heroes Square, with its empty chairs, is a quiet memorial. The Father Bernatek footbridge links Podgórze and Kazimierz and is a pleasant crossing at sunset.

The Planty and the Vistula boulevards

The Planty is a ring of gardens about four kilometres long that circles the old town where its walls once stood, ideal for a slow walk with benches all along the way. Below Wawel, the riverside boulevards along the Vistula are where locals cycle, sit on the grass and gather at barges converted into bars on summer evenings. For a wider view of the city, walk up the Krakus Mound in Podgórze or the Kościuszko Mound to the west.

Where to go out

Cellar bars of the Old Town

Many of Krakow's bars are hidden in the brick-vaulted cellars of medieval townhouses, reached through courtyards and down narrow staircases. They range from quiet wine bars to crowded student haunts with cheap drinks and loud music. The best way to find them is simply to step through archways around the main square and follow the noise. Shared tables and close quarters make conversation with strangers easy.

Kazimierz at night

Kazimierz has the most characterful nightlife in the city: bars filled with mismatched furniture and old sewing machines, small jazz and klezmer venues, craft beer pubs and cocktail bars. The area around Plac Nowy and Szeroka Street is busy every evening, and in summer the crowds spill out into the streets and courtyards. It feels relaxed and creative rather than rowdy.

Student life

With the Jagiellonian University, founded in 1364, and several other universities, Krakow has a huge student population and a strong Erasmus community. This means affordable bars, frequent parties, language exchanges and cultural events throughout the academic year. Student clubs and international meetups are some of the easiest places to meet both locals and other travellers.

Festivals

The Jewish Culture Festival in late June and early July fills Kazimierz with concerts, workshops and a huge open-air closing concert on Szeroka Street. Around midsummer, Wianki brings music and floating wreaths to the Vistula. In August a pierogi festival takes over one of the squares, and from late November the Christmas market lights up the Rynek. All of these are relaxed and sociable occasions.

Music, theatre and milk bars

Krakow has a strong classical music tradition, with chamber concerts in churches almost every evening, as well as jazz clubs that have been running since the communist era. For a cheap and very local meal, try a bar mleczny, a milk bar, a simple canteen serving pierogi, soups and pancakes at low prices. It is an authentic and easy introduction to everyday Polish life.

Things to do

Take a free walking tour

Several companies run tip-based walking tours of the Old Town, Kazimierz and the communist-era district of Nowa Huta. They are an easy way to understand the city's history and to meet other travellers, and many groups end the walk with a drink together.

Visit the Wieliczka Salt Mine

About half an hour from the centre, this centuries-old salt mine has underground lakes, chambers and an entire chapel carved out of salt, with chandeliers made of salt crystals. Tours are guided and involve hundreds of steps on the way down, so wear comfortable shoes.

Pay respects at Auschwitz-Birkenau

The former Nazi German concentration and extermination camp is about an hour and a half from Krakow and is now a memorial and museum. A visit is emotionally demanding and requires booking in advance, but it is one of the most important places to understand in modern European history.

Eat your way through Polish food

Try pierogi with different fillings, żurek, a sour rye soup often served in a bread bowl, and the obwarzanek, a ring-shaped bread sold from street carts all over the city. Food markets and cooking classes are fun shared activities and good ways to meet people.

Day trip to the mountains

Zakopane and the Tatra Mountains are about two hours away by bus or train. In summer there are hiking trails and mountain lakes, in winter skiing and a cosy mountain-town atmosphere. A day out in nature together is a good next step after a first meeting.

Great first-date spots

Good to know

Best season

Late spring and early autumn, from May to June and September to October, are the most pleasant times, with mild weather and fewer crowds. July and August are warm and lively but busy, and they bring the summer festivals. Winters are cold, often below freezing, with short days, but the Christmas market from late November and the snowy old town have their own charm. Rain is possible all year, so bring a light jacket.

Getting around

The Old Town and Kazimierz are compact and best explored on foot. Trams and buses cover the rest of the city and run until late, and tickets can be bought from machines on board or at stops. A train connects the airport to the main station in about twenty minutes. Taxis and ride-hailing apps are inexpensive by Western European standards. Many hotels and hostels are within walking distance of the main square.

Language & meeting people

The language is Polish, and the currency is the złoty. Young people and those working in tourism usually speak good English, while older people may speak less. Learning a few words, such as dzień dobry for hello and dziękuję for thank you, is appreciated. Poles may seem formal at first, but they are hospitable and open up quickly in social settings. When toasting, people say na zdrowie. Punctuality is valued for planned meetings.

Where travelers & expats meet

Kazimierz is the favourite area of international residents and visitors, with cafés, coworking spaces and bars. The streets around the main square and Floriańska Street are busy with travellers, while the student area around the university, near the Planty, has cheaper bars. Krakow has a large Erasmus and international business community, and language exchange evenings, walking tours, hostel events and international meetups are easy ways to meet both locals and other travellers.

Frequently asked questions

Is Krakow good for solo travellers?

Yes. It is safe, compact and affordable, with a large hostel scene, many walking tours and a student nightlife that makes it easy to meet people. Shared tables in cellar bars and group activities help break the ice.

How many days do I need in Krakow?

Three days are enough for the Old Town, Wawel, Kazimierz and Podgórze. Add one day for Wieliczka and another for Auschwitz-Birkenau, or a day in the Tatra Mountains.

Is Krakow expensive?

It is noticeably cheaper than Western European capitals. Restaurants, public transport and bars are affordable, milk bars offer very cheap meals, and many sights have low entry prices. Prices are higher on the main square itself.

Do I need to speak Polish?

No. English is widely spoken by younger people and in tourist areas. A few Polish words are appreciated, and menus in the centre are usually available in English.

When is Krakow most sociable?

From May to September, when terraces are open, the river boulevards are busy and festivals take place. During the academic year the student scene keeps the bars lively, and the Christmas market makes December a cosy, social time too.

Is it safe to meet someone from an app in Krakow?

Krakow is a safe city, and the usual common-sense rules apply: meet the first time in a busy public place, tell someone you trust where you are going and arrange your own way home. Be careful with bars that send promoters to approach tourists on the street. The main square, Kazimierz and the riverside are busy until late and are natural places for a first meeting.

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