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Brussels

Brussels is a small capital with a big international crowd, where a gilded medieval square, Art Nouveau houses and neighbourhood cafés are all within walking distance of each other.

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Photo: Trougnouf (Benoit Brummer) / CC BY 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Brussels

Brussels is the capital of Belgium and the main seat of the European Union institutions, which makes it one of the most international cities in Europe. More than a million people live in the Brussels-Capital Region, spread over nineteen municipalities, and a large share of them were born abroad. The city is officially bilingual, French and Dutch, so street signs come in both languages, but French is what you hear most and English is widely understood. At its heart is the Grand-Place, one of the most beautiful squares in Europe. Around it, the city changes from street to street: the elegant upper town with its palaces and museums, the flea market of the Marolles, the cafés of Saint-Gilles and Ixelles, and houses by Victor Horta that made Brussels a birthplace of Art Nouveau. It is also a city of comics, beer, chocolate and fries. For visitors, Brussels is easy and unpretentious: people are used to newcomers, conversations in several languages are normal, and after-work drinks on a terrace are one of the simplest ways to meet someone new.

Places to visit

The Grand-Place and the Galeries Royales Saint-Hubert

The central square of Brussels is a UNESCO World Heritage site. The Gothic town hall with its tall spire faces the King's House, and the guildhalls around the square, rebuilt after the French bombardment of 1695, are covered in gold details and carved facades. Come once by day and once after dark, when the buildings are lit up. A few minutes away are the Galeries Royales Saint-Hubert, elegant glass-roofed arcades from the 1840s with chocolate shops and cafés, and Manneken Pis, the small bronze statue that is regularly dressed in one of its hundreds of costumes.

Mont des Arts and the Royal Museums of Fine Arts

Between the lower and upper town, the Mont des Arts is a formal garden with steps and terraces and one of the best views over the old centre, with the town hall spire rising above the rooftops. Around it are the Royal Museums of Fine Arts of Belgium, with Flemish masters such as Bruegel and Rubens, and the Magritte Museum, dedicated to the Belgian surrealist. Close by are the Musical Instruments Museum, in a striking Art Nouveau former department store, and the Royal Palace.

The Atomium

Built for the 1958 World Expo, the Atomium is a steel structure in the shape of an iron crystal magnified billions of times, with nine spheres connected by tubes. It stands in the north of the city, easily reached by metro, and has become the symbol of Brussels. Inside are exhibitions about the Expo, escalators running through the tubes and a panoramic view from the top sphere. Even if you do not go in, see it up close: it is much bigger than photos suggest.

Parc du Cinquantenaire

A large park in the European Quarter, built to mark fifty years of Belgian independence, with a monumental triumphal arch at its centre. The buildings on either side house the Art & History Museum, the Royal Military Museum, from which you can step out onto the arch for a view along the avenue, and Autoworld, a collection of historic cars. On sunny days the lawns fill with picnics and runners, and the European Parliament and Commission are a short walk away.

The Sablon and the Marolles

Two neighbouring areas with very different characters. The Sablon, in the upper town, is elegant and calm, with antique shops, some of Belgium's best-known chocolatiers, terraces and the Gothic church of Notre-Dame du Sablon. Just below, the Marolles is a traditional working-class district with second-hand shops, simple bars and the flea market on Place du Jeu de Balle, held every morning. A free public lift links the Marolles with the enormous Palace of Justice, which has a wide view over the city.

Saint-Gilles and Ixelles

These two municipalities just south of the centre are where many young residents and international newcomers live, and where Brussels feels most like a place to live rather than visit. Saint-Gilles is known for its Art Nouveau houses, including the Horta Museum, and for the Parvis, a busy square lined with cafés. Ixelles has the ponds, Place Flagey with its Art Deco landmark, the shops and restaurants around Châtelain, and Matongé, the city's Congolese and African quarter.

Where to go out

Bars and terraces around Saint-Géry and Sainte-Catherine

The streets just west of the Grand-Place are the heart of the city's nightlife. Around Place Saint-Géry and its former market hall, bars and terraces stay busy until late, and nearby Sainte-Catherine, the old port area, has fish restaurants, wine bars and a lively square. It is relaxed rather than flashy, and on warm evenings the crowds spill onto the pavements, which makes it easy to start talking with the people next to you.

Belgian beer culture

Belgium has one of the richest beer traditions in the world, from Trappist beers brewed by monks to sour lambic and gueuze, traditionally made in and around Brussels itself. Many cafés have long beer menus and serve each beer in its own glass, and staff are usually happy to recommend something. Belgian beers are often stronger than people expect, so start small. A visit to a traditional lambic brewery in Anderlecht shows the local style.

Live music and concerts

Brussels has a busy music scene for its size. Ancienne Belgique in the centre and the Botanique, a former greenhouse turned cultural centre, host international and Belgian bands most nights. Flagey in Ixelles is known for jazz and classical concerts, the Bozar arts centre presents music, exhibitions and film, and La Monnaie is the city's opera house.

Festivals and events through the year

In summer, the Ommegang brings a historical procession in costume to the Grand-Place, free concerts fill the parks, and every two years in August the square is covered with a huge carpet of flowers. Belgian National Day on 21 July brings a parade and celebrations. In winter, a large Christmas market with a skating rink and a big wheel spreads around the Bourse and Sainte-Catherine, and the Grand-Place has a light and music show.

Comedy, theatre and cinema

Because the city works in several languages, so does its cultural life. There are theatres in French and Dutch, regular stand-up comedy in English for the international community, and many cinemas showing films in their original version with subtitles. Cinema Galeries in the royal arcades and Cinematek, the national film archive's cinema, are good for independent and classic films.

Things to do

Follow the Comic Book Route

Brussels is the home of Belgian comics, including Tintin and the Smurfs, and dozens of walls across the centre are painted with large comic strip murals. Hunting for them is a fun way to discover streets you would otherwise miss. Start at the Belgian Comic Strip Center, in an Art Nouveau building designed by Victor Horta, or simply look up as you walk through the old centre and the Marolles.

Discover Art Nouveau architecture

Around 1900, Brussels was one of the centres of Art Nouveau, and many houses with curved iron balconies, mosaics and stained glass still stand. The Horta Museum in Saint-Gilles, the architect's own house, is the best place to see the style from the inside; booking ahead is a good idea. Afterwards, walk the surrounding streets of Saint-Gilles and Ixelles, where many facades are decorated with painted panels and ironwork.

Eat your way through Belgian classics

Fries in a paper cone from a friterie, with one of a long list of sauces, are a local institution. Try mussels with fries, waffles, either the light rectangular Brussels kind or the sweeter, denser Liège one, and speculoos biscuits. Chocolate is everywhere, from supermarket bars to the chocolatiers of the Sablon, where many shops let you taste before buying. Carbonnade, beef stewed in beer, is good comfort food on a cold day.

Explore the green side of the city

The Bois de la Cambre is a large park in the south of the city with a lake and a small island café, and it leads directly into the Sonian Forest, a huge beech forest where you can walk or cycle for hours. Closer to the centre, the Parc de Bruxelles in front of the Royal Palace and the Parc du Cinquantenaire are good for a break between museums. On sunny days, locals head to the parks as soon as work ends.

Take a day trip to Ghent, Bruges or Antwerp

Belgium is small and well connected by train. Ghent, with its canals, castle and student life, is about half an hour away. Bruges, with its medieval centre, takes about an hour, and Antwerp, known for fashion and its grand railway station, is under an hour. Trains leave frequently, and Brussels-Midi also has fast international trains to Paris, Amsterdam, Cologne and London.

Great first-date spots

Good to know

Best season

May, June and September are the most pleasant months, with mild temperatures and long evenings on the terraces. July and August are the warmest and bring summer festivals, although many residents are away on holiday. Rain can come in any season, so carry an umbrella or a light rain jacket. Winters are grey and damp, but December has the Christmas market and the light show on the Grand-Place.

Getting around

The centre is compact and best explored on foot, although the walk from the lower to the upper town is uphill. The metro, trams and buses of the STIB cover the whole city, and you can pay by tapping a contactless bank card. The train from Brussels Airport reaches the centre in about twenty minutes. The three main stations, Brussels-North, Brussels-Central and Brussels-Midi, are linked by a rail tunnel, and international high-speed trains arrive at Midi.

Language & meeting people

Brussels is officially bilingual, French and Dutch, but French is the most common language on the street, and English is widely spoken, especially among younger people and in the European Quarter. A simple bonjour when you walk into a shop is appreciated. People are generally friendly and relaxed, and because so many residents come from somewhere else, being new in the city is completely normal. Conversations often switch between languages, and nobody minds.

Where travelers & expats meet

Brussels has one of the largest international communities in Europe, connected to the EU institutions, NATO, embassies, NGOs and international companies. Place du Luxembourg near the European Parliament is famous for after-work drinks on Thursday evenings. Saint-Gilles, Ixelles, Châtelain and the area around Flagey are popular with young international residents. Language exchange evenings, sports clubs and hiking groups are common ways to meet people and are easy to find through local groups.

Frequently asked questions

Is Brussels good for solo travellers?

Yes. The centre is compact and easy to explore on foot, public transport is simple, and the large international population means people are used to newcomers. Cafés and bars are relaxed about people coming alone, and the after-work drinks culture makes it easy to strike up a conversation.

How many days do I need in Brussels?

Two to three days are enough for the Grand-Place, the old centre, a couple of museums, the Atomium and a neighbourhood such as Saint-Gilles or Ixelles. Add a day or two for trains to Ghent, Bruges or Antwerp.

Do I need to speak French or Dutch?

No. English is widely understood in hotels, restaurants and shops and among younger people. Still, a few words of French, such as bonjour and merci, are appreciated and help outside the tourist areas. Signs and announcements are in both French and Dutch.

Is Brussels expensive?

Prices are moderate for a Western European capital, generally lower than in Paris, London or Amsterdam. Hotels in the European Quarter can be pricier on weekdays and cheaper at weekends. Fries, waffles and simple cafés keep eating out affordable, and parks, squares and some museums are free or cheap.

What should I watch out for as a visitor?

As in any big city, watch your belongings in crowded places, especially around the Grand-Place, in the metro and at the main train stations, where pickpockets are active. The areas around some large stations can feel uncomfortable late at night, so take a taxi if you arrive very late.

Is it safe to meet someone from an app in Brussels?

Brussels is generally safe, and the same simple rules apply as anywhere: meet in a busy public place for the first time, tell a friend where you are going and arrange your own transport home. Cafés, terraces and busy squares such as the Parvis de Saint-Gilles, Place Flagey or the Sablon are natural first meeting places.

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