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Los Angeles

Los Angeles is not one city but dozens of neighbourhoods spread between the mountains and the Pacific, all sharing the same sunshine.

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Photo: Alaiben / CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Los Angeles

Los Angeles began in 1781 as a small Spanish farming settlement near what is now Olvera Street, and grew into one of the largest cities in the United States, with nearly four million people inside the city limits and many more in the surrounding county. It is famous for the film industry, but most of the people who live here have nothing to do with it. What defines the city for a visitor is its size and its variety: beach towns, hillside neighbourhoods, a revived downtown, and districts where you will hear Korean, Spanish, Armenian, Thai or Tagalog more often than English. There is no single centre to walk around, so the best way to enjoy Los Angeles is to choose two or three areas and get to know them well rather than trying to see everything. The reward is a city with excellent food at every price, free museums and viewpoints, mild weather almost all year, and an outdoor, informal way of life — hiking in the morning, the beach in the afternoon, a taco truck at night — that makes it easy to share plans with someone new.

Places to visit

Griffith Observatory and Griffith Park

Set on the slope of Mount Hollywood, the art deco observatory opened in 1935 and is still free to enter. Its terraces give the best panoramic view in the city: downtown towers in one direction, the Pacific on a clear day in the other, and the Hollywood sign on the hill nearby. Griffith Park around it is one of the largest urban parks in the country, with hiking trails that start right below the building. Come in the late afternoon, watch the sunset, and stay for the lights of the city coming on.

Santa Monica Pier and the beach

The wooden pier, with its small amusement park and Ferris wheel, is the classic image of Los Angeles by the sea and the symbolic end of the old Route 66. The wide sandy beach stretches for miles on both sides, and the Pacific is cool even in summer, so many people come to walk, cycle or watch the surfers rather than to swim. The streets just inland are full of cafés and shops, and the Metro line from downtown ends a few blocks from the pier.

Venice Beach and the canals

Just south of Santa Monica, the Venice boardwalk is loud, colourful and a little chaotic: street performers, skaters, the outdoor gym at Muscle Beach and basketball courts by the sand. A few streets inland the mood changes completely — the Venice Canals are a quiet grid of footbridges and small houses with gardens along the water, built in the early twentieth century to imitate Venice. Walk both in one afternoon to see two sides of the same neighbourhood.

The Getty Center

A hilltop museum complex designed by Richard Meier, reached by a small tram from the car park at the bottom. Admission is free, though parking is not. The collection covers European painting, sculpture, photography and decorative arts, but many visitors come as much for the travertine architecture, the Central Garden and the views over the city towards the ocean. Plan half a day and arrive early to avoid the busiest hours.

Downtown: Grand Central Market, The Broad and Walt Disney Concert Hall

Downtown has changed a great deal in recent decades. Grand Central Market, open since 1917, is a covered food hall with counters serving everything from tacos to ramen. Up the hill on Grand Avenue, The Broad shows contemporary art with free general admission, and next door Frank Gehry's stainless steel Walt Disney Concert Hall is home to the Los Angeles Philharmonic. Nearby, the Arts District is full of murals, breweries and restaurants in former warehouses.

Hollywood

Hollywood Boulevard is where most visitors start: the stars of the Walk of Fame on the pavement, the handprints outside the TCL Chinese Theatre and the Dolby Theatre, home of the Academy Awards. It is busy, commercial and not glamorous, so do not expect film stars on the street. It is still worth an hour, and the hills directly above it — with trails up towards the Hollywood sign — show why the industry settled here in the first place.

Where to go out

The Hollywood Bowl

An open-air amphitheatre in the hills, opened in 1922, where the summer season brings classical concerts, film music nights, jazz and big-name pop acts. Many people arrive early and bring a picnic with wine to eat before the show — it is part of the tradition. The cheapest seats at the back are inexpensive and the atmosphere under the night sky is the same everywhere. It is one of the easiest shared plans in the city.

Silver Lake and Echo Park evenings

These two hillside neighbourhoods east of Hollywood are where much of the city's independent nightlife lives: small bars, live music venues, natural wine places and taco stands open late. The crowd is local, creative and mostly in their twenties and thirties. Evenings often start at Echo Park Lake, where people walk around the water at sunset, then move up Sunset Boulevard from one bar to the next.

Comedy clubs

Los Angeles is one of the world's centres for stand-up comedy, and the long-established clubs on the Sunset Strip and in West Hollywood host shows every night, from well-known names trying out new material to newcomers at open mic nights. Tickets are often affordable, though many clubs have a two-drink minimum. Laughing at the same jokes is a surprisingly good way to spend a first evening with someone.

A Dodgers game

Dodger Stadium, opened in 1962 in Chavez Ravine near downtown, is one of the oldest ballparks in Major League Baseball, with views of the San Gabriel Mountains behind the outfield. The season runs from spring to autumn. Even if you do not follow baseball, a night game with a hot dog in the stands is a relaxed social event: the pace is slow, conversation is easy and the crowd is friendly.

Rooftop bars downtown

Several hotels and buildings in downtown have rooftop bars with pools, fire pits and views of the lit-up towers. They are busiest on Friday and Saturday nights, and some have a dress code or a cover charge, so check before you go. Arriving around sunset is the best time, both for the view and for finding a seat.

Things to do

Hike to a viewpoint in the hills

Hiking is an everyday social activity in Los Angeles. Popular trails in Griffith Park lead to the summit of Mount Hollywood or towards the back of the Hollywood sign, and Runyon Canyon above Hollywood is a short, steep and busy loop with views over the city. Go early in the morning or late in the afternoon, bring plenty of water, and remember that shade is rare.

Cycle the beach path from Santa Monica

A paved path runs along the sand for many miles, passing Santa Monica, Venice and Marina del Rey. Bikes can be rented near the pier, and the route is flat, easy and has the ocean beside you the whole way. Stop for coffee in Venice or watch the skateboarders at the skate park on the boardwalk.

Eat your way through the neighbourhoods

The best food in Los Angeles is often the least expensive. Taco trucks and stands appear on street corners every evening, Koreatown has some of the best Korean barbecue outside Korea, Thai Town and the San Gabriel Valley are famous for Asian cooking, and Little Tokyo has ramen and sushi. Choosing one neighbourhood for dinner is a perfect excuse to see a new part of the city.

Drive the Pacific Coast Highway to Malibu

North of Santa Monica, the coastal highway runs between the mountains and the sea towards Malibu, past beaches, surf spots and cliffs. This is where having a car pays off. Stop at El Matador or Point Dume for the rocky coves and viewpoints, and time the drive back for sunset over the water.

Walk Olvera Street and Little Tokyo

Olvera Street, in the historic area where the city was founded, is a pedestrian lane of Mexican market stalls and old adobe buildings, including the oldest surviving house in Los Angeles. A short walk away, Little Tokyo has Japanese shops, bakeries and the Japanese American National Museum. Together they show how old and how mixed the city really is.

Great first-date spots

Good to know

Best season

Los Angeles is pleasant almost all year. Spring and autumn are the most comfortable seasons, with warm days, cool evenings and clear air; September and October can be hot. In May and June the coast is often covered by morning cloud locally called June Gloom, which usually clears by the afternoon. Summer is hot and dry inland and milder by the sea, and the ocean stays cool. Winter is mild, with most of the year's rain falling between December and March, and fewer visitors.

Getting around

Be honest with yourself about distances: Los Angeles is very spread out, and for most visitors a car is the most practical way to get around. Traffic is heavy, especially on weekdays at rush hour, and a short distance on the map can take an hour to drive. The Metro rail network is useful for certain routes — downtown, Hollywood, Koreatown, Pasadena, and the line to Santa Monica — and you pay with a rechargeable TAP card or a phone. Ride-hailing apps are widely used. The best approach is to stay in one area and plan each day around a single part of the city.

Language & meeting people

English is the main language, and Spanish is spoken very widely; in many neighbourhoods you will hear Korean, Armenian, Tagalog, Chinese or Persian as well. People are generally friendly and open, and conversation with strangers at a café, on a hiking trail or at a concert is normal. Plans are often made loosely and around activities — a hike, a show, a meal — rather than just a drink. Because of the distances, people tend to meet in their own part of the city, so agree on a place that is convenient for both of you.

Where travelers & expats meet

International residents are everywhere in Los Angeles, but visitors and newcomers tend to gather in Santa Monica and Venice by the beach, in Silver Lake and Echo Park for independent bars and coffee, in West Hollywood for nightlife, and in Koreatown, which is central and well connected by Metro. Hiking groups, running clubs, surf lessons, language exchange evenings and volunteer events are popular ways to meet people and are easy to find through local social groups.

Frequently asked questions

Do I need a car in Los Angeles?

For most trips, yes, or at least regular use of ride-hailing apps. The Metro covers some important routes, but the city is very large and many places are far from a station. If you do not want to drive, stay in a walkable area such as Santa Monica, Koreatown or downtown, and plan days around one district at a time.

Which neighbourhood is best to stay in?

Santa Monica is the easiest choice for a first visit, with the beach, walkable streets and a direct Metro line. Silver Lake and Echo Park suit travellers who want independent cafés and nightlife, Koreatown is central and more affordable, and Hollywood is convenient for sightseeing but busy and less charming.

How many days do I need in Los Angeles?

Four or five days lets you see the beach towns, Hollywood and Griffith Park, downtown and one or two museums without spending the whole time in traffic. Add more days for a drive to Malibu or a trip into the mountains or desert nearby.

Is Los Angeles expensive?

Accommodation, car rental and parking are the largest costs, and restaurant prices are high in fashionable areas. On the other hand, many of the best things are free or cheap: beaches, hiking, the Getty Center, The Broad, Griffith Observatory and some of the best inexpensive street food in the country.

Can I swim in the ocean?

Yes, but the Pacific here is cool for most of the year, warmest in late summer and early autumn. Swim near a lifeguard station, follow their flags and warnings about currents, and check local water quality reports, especially after rain.

Is it safe to meet someone from an app in Los Angeles?

Yes, if you follow the same simple rules as anywhere: meet in a busy public place for the first time, tell a friend where you are going and arrange your own transport there and back. Because the city is so spread out, choose a place you can reach easily and leave easily — busy food halls, beach paths and popular viewpoints work well.

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