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Fethiye

Fethiye is a relaxed harbour town on Turkey's turquoise coast, where pine-covered mountains meet calm bays, Lycian tombs look down on the marina and the most famous lagoon in the country is only a short ride away.

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Photo: Hsuparneeuq / CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Fethiye

Fethiye lies in the southwest of Turkey, in the province of Muğla, on a wide bay sheltered by islands and backed by high mountains. In ancient times it was Telmessos, one of the cities of Lycia, and the rock tombs carved into the cliffs above the town are still its best-known landmark. Earthquakes, especially the one in 1957, destroyed much of the old town, so most of what you see today is relatively new, low-rise and built around the harbour. The town is lived in all year, with a weekly market and busy tea gardens, but it is also the base for some of the most beautiful landscapes on the Mediterranean: the lagoon at Ölüdeniz, Butterfly Valley, Saklıkent Gorge and the first stages of the Lycian Way. The currency is the Turkish lira. Summers are long and hot, the sea is warm from late spring to autumn, and boat trips, beach bars and the old bazaar make it easy to start a conversation with other travelers.

Places to visit

Ölüdeniz and the Blue Lagoon

About fifteen kilometres south of the town, Ölüdeniz is the image most people have of this coast. The long pebble beach of Belcekız faces open water under the slopes of Babadağ mountain, while the Blue Lagoon next to it is a protected nature park with calm, shallow, very clear water, ideal for an easy swim. There is a small entrance fee for the lagoon. Arrive early in summer, and stay until the late afternoon to watch the paragliders land on the beach.

Kayaköy

On a hillside a short drive from the town stand the ruins of Kayaköy, once the Greek village of Levissi. Its inhabitants left in 1923 with the population exchange between Greece and Turkey, and hundreds of roofless stone houses and two churches remain on the slope. Walking between them is quiet and moving. A few family restaurants in the valley serve gözleme and home cooking, and a marked trail leads over the hill to Ölüdeniz in about two hours.

Amyntas Rock Tombs and Ancient Telmessos

Carved into the cliff above the town in the fourth century BC, the tomb of Amyntas has the façade of a small Ionic temple and is the finest of the Lycian rock tombs in Fethiye. A stairway climbs up to it, and the view over the rooftops, the harbour and the bay is worth the effort, especially at sunset. Down in the town you can see the remains of the Roman theatre of Telmessos near the harbour and stone sarcophagi standing in the middle of ordinary streets.

Butterfly Valley

A narrow valley closed by high cliffs and opening onto a small beach, Butterfly Valley owes its name to the butterflies and moths that gather there in summer. A path through the trees leads to a waterfall at the back of the valley. The safe way to get there is by boat from Ölüdeniz, a short and beautiful trip along the coast. The steep path down from the village above is dangerous and is not recommended.

Saklıkent Gorge

About an hour from the town, Saklıkent is a deep, narrow canyon cut by a mountain river. From the entrance a walkway leads into the gorge, and from there you continue on foot through ice-cold water, sometimes knee-deep, between rock walls hundreds of metres high. Wear shoes that can get wet. In early spring, when the snow melts, the water can be too high to enter, so summer and early autumn are the best time. Restaurants built over the river serve trout and gözleme.

Paspatur and the Harbour

Paspatur is the old bazaar quarter in the centre of the town: a small grid of lanes shaded by vines and awnings, full of shops, carpet sellers, tea gardens, cafés and bars, and home to a historic Turkish bath. Just beyond it, the harbour promenade runs along the marina, where wooden gulets prepare for boat trips and locals walk in the evening.

Where to go out

Evenings at the Fish Market

The fish market in the centre of the town is one of the most enjoyable traditions in Fethiye. In the middle are the fishmongers' stalls, and all around are restaurants with tables outside. You choose your fish or seafood at the counter, the restaurant next to it cooks it for a small fee and serves it with salads, mezes and bread. The atmosphere is noisy, friendly and busy until late.

Bars of Paspatur

In the evening the lanes of Paspatur become the heart of the town's nightlife. Small bars with tables in the street, live music, cocktail bars and rooftop terraces sit side by side, and the crowd mixes locals and travelers. The atmosphere is relaxed rather than wild, and moving from one bar to the next is part of the fun.

Sunsets on Çalış Beach

North of the centre, Çalış is a long beach with a promenade lined with cafés, restaurants and bars. It is famous for its sunsets, when the sun goes down behind the islands of the bay and the sky turns orange and pink. In summer small water taxis run between the harbour and Çalış, which makes the trip itself part of the evening.

Nights in Ölüdeniz and Hisarönü

Ölüdeniz has beach bars and restaurants along the seafront that stay open late in summer, and the evening there is calm and pleasant after a day by the water. On the hill above, Hisarönü has a busier strip of bars and clubs that is popular with younger visitors and groups of friends. Dolmuş minibuses run between Fethiye, Hisarönü and Ölüdeniz until late in the season.

Tuesday Market

Every Tuesday a large market fills the area along the canal in the town. There are stalls of fruit, vegetables, spices, cheese, olives and textiles, and local women make fresh gözleme on the spot. It is colourful and very local, and best in the morning before the heat.

Things to do

Paraglide from Babadağ

Babadağ, the mountain that rises almost two thousand metres above Ölüdeniz, is one of the best-known paragliding places in the world. Tandem flights with an experienced pilot take off from high on the mountain and glide for around half an hour above the lagoon before landing on the beach. No experience is needed. Choose a licensed company, and if you prefer to keep your feet on the ground, a cable car now climbs the mountain for the view alone.

Take the Twelve Islands Boat Trip

From the harbour, wooden boats leave every morning in season for a day around the islands and bays of the Gulf of Fethiye. The boat stops several times so you can swim in clear water, lunch is usually served on board, and you return in the late afternoon. It is one of the easiest ways to meet other travelers.

Walk a Section of the Lycian Way

The Lycian Way is a long-distance trail of more than five hundred kilometres that begins near Ölüdeniz and follows the coast towards Antalya. You do not need to walk all of it: the first stages, through pine forests and villages high above the sea towards Faralya and Kabak, make excellent day walks. Spring and autumn are the best seasons, and in summer it is better to start very early.

Spend Time at the Hamam

A visit to a Turkish bath is a simple and authentic pleasure. In the historic bath in Paspatur and in other hamams in the town, you relax on a warm marble stone, then receive a scrub and a foam massage. It is a good way to rest after hiking or a day on a boat.

Taste the Local Food

Start the day with a long Turkish breakfast of cheese, olives, tomatoes, eggs, honey and fresh bread. During the day try gözleme, the thin filled flatbread cooked on a griddle, and in the evening share mezes and grilled fish. Tea is offered everywhere and is a natural way to start a conversation.

Great first-date spots

Good to know

Best season

May, June, September and October are the best months: warm days, a sea that is pleasant for swimming and fewer crowds. July and August are very hot, often well above thirty degrees, and the beaches and boat trips are busy, so it is best to be active in the morning and evening. Winter is mild and rainy; many beach businesses close, but the town stays alive.

Getting around

Dalaman airport is about forty-five minutes away by road, with shuttle buses that follow the flight times and taxis. In the area, dolmuş minibuses are the main transport: they are cheap, frequent and connect the town with Çalış, Ölüdeniz, Hisarönü, Kayaköy and Saklıkent; you pay the driver and can ask to get off anywhere along the route. In summer water taxis run between the harbour and Çalış.

Language & meeting people

The local language is Turkish, but English is widely spoken in hotels, restaurants, boats and shops, and many people also speak some German or Russian. A simple «merhaba» to say hello and «teşekkürler» to say thank you are always appreciated. Hospitality is real: a glass of tea is often offered in shops, and people are curious and friendly. Boat trips, paragliding, group walks, the fish market and the bars of Paspatur are the natural places to meet other travelers.

Where travelers & expats meet

Fethiye has a large community of foreign residents, many of them British, who live in Çalış and in the villages around the town, and in summer it is full of travelers of all ages. Younger visitors often stay in Ölüdeniz and Hisarönü, while the town centre, the harbour and Paspatur attract those who want a more local atmosphere. Cafés along the marina, the promenade at Çalış and the bars of Paspatur are the main meeting points, and boat trips and walking groups are easy ways to meet people.

Frequently asked questions

Is Fethiye good for solo travelers?

Yes. The town is safe, relaxed and easy to get around by dolmuş, and boat trips, paragliding, group walks and the fish market make it easy to meet other people. Accommodation ranges from simple guesthouses and hostels to hotels, both in the town and in Ölüdeniz.

How many days do I need in Fethiye?

Four or five days let you see the town, Ölüdeniz, Kayaköy and Butterfly Valley and take a boat trip. With a week or more you can add Saklıkent, a paragliding flight and a few stages of the Lycian Way, or simply slow down and enjoy the sea.

Should I stay in Fethiye town or in Ölüdeniz?

It depends on what you want. The town is more local, with the harbour, Paspatur, the fish market and easy connections everywhere. Ölüdeniz is right by the beach and the lagoon and is more focused on holidays. Since the dolmuş between the two is frequent, many people stay in one and visit the other.

Is Fethiye expensive?

Prices are moderate compared with many Mediterranean destinations, though they are higher in Ölüdeniz and in peak season. The currency is the Turkish lira and cards are widely accepted, but carry some cash for the dolmuş, markets and small restaurants. Eating where locals eat and using the dolmuş keeps costs low.

How do I get to Butterfly Valley safely?

Take the boat from Ölüdeniz, which runs several times a day in season and also stops there on some boat trips. Do not try to climb down the cliff path from the village above: it is very steep, and accidents have happened there.

Is it safe to meet someone from an app in Fethiye?

Fethiye is generally safe, and the same simple rules apply here as anywhere else: meet the first time in a busy public place, tell a friend where you are going and arrange your own way home. The promenade at Çalış, the cafés by the marina, the fish market and the bars of Paspatur are natural places for a first meeting.

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